A TRIP TO EGYPT

Mr. W. McKenzie, of Eglinton st., Moonee Ponds, has received the follow ing interesting letter from his son, Cpl. W. L. McKenzie:

Red Sea, Boxing Day, 1915.

I suppose you have been watching for the postman every day lately for the first letter from Egypt. Well, now that he has arrived, get yourself cosily settled down with them all around you to listen to a long letter, for I promise you this is going to be about the longest I have ever written. I am going to start from Victoria Dock, or rather from the time I left the Broadmeadows station, and take you all on the long journey to Egypt. When I got back to camp, I had to ram a few more things into my sea kit bag-a white calico bag we each got for things needed on the trip before turning in for two or three hours' sleep. Reveille was to go at 3 o'clock, so that we could, get an early start. As a matter of fact, it wasn't blown until 4.30, I belive, but we made a start for the station at about 7.30. It was the first time we had worn our full equipment on the march. Haversack, knapsack, belts, pouches, etc, and a bulging kit bag to worry us, made us feel jolly glad when the station was reached. A very enthusiastic little woman, mother of one of the lads, tramped beside us and kept things lively. She showed her practical side by bringing some cold pudding, of which I got a slice, and enjoyed it. We were entrained very quickly, and from Essendon to Ascot Vale, I hung halfway out of a window for familiar faces, but saw one only. We detrained at Spencer street, and marched from there past Sands and Mac.'s to the dock at about 8.30. We were very sick of waiting about on the wharf for the order to move on board. Then when we got there we were imprisoned in our troop decks until every man was settled in his place.

When we were set free, there was a mad rush for places on the decks, and I was lucky enough to got a fairly decent one. I'll never forget the scene be fore we moved off--the crowd on the wharf with all those coloured streamers stretched up to us. We were all pretty quiet going down the Bay, but I was soon on the lookout for Mount Martha, Dromana and Rosebud, and calling to mind the good time we had there last Christmas. After passing the heads, I settled down to a few days' solid seasickness, and when I was sufficiently interested in things again we were past South Australia, and getting well into the Great Australian Bight. I have told you as much as I could of our life on board, and have only to fill up the gaps-the most interesting parts of the trip to us, and the things which the censor wouldn't let us tell of before we reach Egypt. The first gap was our first port of call, and as with both the places we called at, we didn't know what it was until we were actually there. When we first sighted land, great was the speculation as to whether we were to steam into Albany or Fremantle, but Fremantle turned up trumps. It was   fairly early morning when we distinguished a beautiful island on our right. Presently, we, turned into a strait between this island and the mainland, and it was a sight I'll never forget. The weather was splendid. It was good to see land again, and every thing seemed to be in the mood to look its best. To our disappointment, we anchored a good way out, and any hopes we had of getting ashore were soon knocked on the head. It is a pity to visit a place and not see it. So all we could do was to lean over the rail and wonder what that place over there is, and what the deuce is that funny looking thing straight ahead, and so on. Fremantle itself didn't look a very attractive place from the ship, though one or two suburbs we could see looked very well. We bade farewell to Fremantle (and the last bit of Australia we are to see for some time) the following night, and we were glad to get on the move again. We began to look forward to seeing Colombo, though we were by no means certain that we would call there. Every now and then we would anxiously wonder, by watching our course by the sun, whether we were going too far west to make a visit to Ceylon probable. The chaps used to come in with different yarns from the sailors, who used to pull their legs wholesale. I used to dream years ago of the time when I would cross this ocean and under what different circumstances to these! You have got to cross it to realise how vast it is day after day, the same expanse. We had rather a lonely existence, as we kept well out of the regular track. How we would have liked to visit the Cocos Islands, where the Emden was smashed! We were fortunate right through in having really beautiful weather, though, as we neared the Equator it was often unpleasantly hot.  

It was 10 to 12 days before we had our first hazy glimpse of Ceylon-a mountainous line on the horizon that looked just a little more solid than cloud. It was a sight that raised all sorts of expectations. Some keen eyes soon picked out a few tiny spots in the distance, and wasn't it interesting to see them growing gradually more distinct and then to find that they were native catamarans, with two or three darky fishermen in each. Out came the cameras, and those darkies were responsible for few hard words for not coming in closer. We were greatly tickled, when they came near enough for us to see them clearly. It looked so comical to see them squatting in a boat that looked hardly wide enough for them to sit down in. We were presently steaming past the outskirts of Colombo. We could imagine the tea plantations on the slopes of the mountains we could see in the distance, and  the queer villages inland, and you can  bet we were wishing hard for a week's  ramble amongst them. We were all as excited as a lot of kiddies, and our greatest trouble was whether the captain was  going to anchor too far out for us to see much of the place. It looked as if we were doomed to disappointment, for the boat was stopping. But we soon saw a little launch  fussily coming out to us with someone  in white sitting in the stern, and as this was sure to be the pilot up went our hopes again. We weren't mistaken. The niggers who brought him out soon showed what capital beggars it they are. And you ought to have seen a them scramble and heard the jabber jabber when the chaps threw money down to them. They fairly tumbled over one another to get it. Coppers they showed some contempt for, and all the silver went straight into their mouths. Soon we were headed into the entrance to an artificial harbour formed by two great breakwaters. There was a good number of steamers   inside-great and small-and gave one a good idea of the importance, of the place. We anchored just inside the a entrance, and opposite a very beautiful plantation of palms, in which we could see an old English church and a   bungalow. The city came right down   to the harbour, and it looked inviting.   There is no need for me to tell you the question of the hour was-were we to be taken into the city? In a little while we were all as happy as Larry, for the Major told us that we were to go on a route march next day, and if we behaved like good children, we were to be given a certain amount of liberty. This discipline business just   makes you feel like a big kid---you have got to ask permission to do this, that or the other, and we were to feel  it next day when marching through all sorts of fascinating sights imprisoned in the ranks. Of course, our visit to Colombo was far and away the most interesting experience of our trip. We were in a strange world altogether, with all kinds of quaint sights and a wealth of colour everywhere. Colombo is passing strange after prosaic Melbourne, with our trim gardens and  matter-of-fact streets. We were to go ashore on half-a-dozen barges, drawn by a tug. We were packed tightly, and on arrival at the pier were formed into marching order, and away we went. For the next hour I was worked up to a proper pitch-my eyes couldn't  work hard enough-such a lot to see and such a little time to see it in. All sorts of queerly dressed natives, in bright colours, filled the streets. I find it hard to describe what we saw,  as we went through the streets at a steady pace, without stopping, and everything was so new to us that it was rather bewildering. If we could have broken off and moved quietly here and there, following up every thing specially interesting, we should have had a lot more to tell. As it was, the impression left on my mind is just a jumble of buildings, colour, and fine streets teeming with life. I was surprised at the number of fine buildings, and only wish I could have got a photo of some of them. It wasn't long before we had left the city and were marching through the residential part. It was here that we were given some idea of tropical gardens. Most of the better class houses-delightfully cool-looking places-were embedded in palms and all sorts of tropical plants and looked very beautiful.

Tropical gardens and colourful locals on the roadside in Colombo, 1919.  Australian War

Memorial Collection.  http://cas.awm.gov.au/item/H01659

It was hot when we went through, and we soon felt the effects of the march, so these places were inviting. Every now and again we would be passed by a rickshaw taking a white man, and occasion ally an important looking native, on their way to business. We saw very few white women, and they looked sallow and anaemic-as if the climate is altogether too much for them. The native carts are very picturesque and funny. They have small thick wheels, and are covered in with what looked like some sort of thatch. They are drawn by a sleepy old bullock, who looks very bored with life. One pretty sight was a line of' little youngsters leaning against a low rope fence, to see the "sojers" go past. They evidently came from a kindergarten we could see in a street, near by, and looked very pretty with their round black faces and bright clothes. We did not seem to excite much curiosity amongst the natives generally-I dare-say they have seen a great number of Australian soldiers by this time. But right along the march we were worried by some with highly-coloured handkies, gaudy brooches, etc:, they were trying to sell. After about 1½ hours' march, we turned into a beautiful road that led into a park, where we were to have half-an-hour's spell. You have no idea of the colour everywhere--even the road we were now in was a bright terra-cotta. When we were broken off in the park we nc.o.'s were made to form a cordon round the men to pre vent any getting away. This short rest in a small paddock was all the liberty we got, and to say we were disappoint ed is putting it mildly. We were soon arguing with natives over soft drinks and bananas--beating them down to a fair price. I got a bottle of some stuff they called cream soda for 4d he asked 6d at first. One little beggar brought me a couple of wild flowers he picked up a few yards away and gave them to me. Naturally, I reckoned he just wanted to give me a couple of flowers like one of our own youngsters would to a soldier, but no fear! After he had given them out came his fist for cash-they are inveterate begars. We set out on our return journey, and this time we were taken through part of the native quarters. I wish I could describe it. Narrow winding streets, little shops. crowds and crowds of natives and, of course, colour everywhere.

Colombo, Ceylon - a typical street scene in the native quarter, 1919.  Australian War

Memorial Collection. http://cas.awm.gov.au/item/H01811

I felt what it is like to be a prisoner--here were we tramping through the most interesting sights and only able to get a rapid glimpse of them. It was just like watching moving pictures. I stepped out and got one or two snaps on the way back. The native shops are very quaint and I could imagine, very poky and dirty. They have no glass to the windows, but display their goods in the open. I remember one fairly well-a food shop. They had all sorts of rum looking things set out in little trays about the size of your little cake shapes. One would want an explanation of most of the goods before he would tackle them. We left this quarter behind and got into the city again. Here there were electric trams, fine wide streets and modern shops, some of which would do credit to Melbourne. We saw very few English girls. Only one gave us a wave-and she got an ahoy she'll remember for a long time. On the way back we passed men from another transport-free, the lucky devils. We were soon aboard our barges again, and on our way back to the boat, which we reached about 12 noon. So ended our all too short visit to Colombo. From the accounts I have heard I expected the ship would be surrounded by native boats with all sorts of things to sell and so on, but actually we had very little of this, and the only things they did was to sell a few bananas and coconuts and show us what champion beggars they are. One or two dived for money, but their diving and swim ming were disappointing. Australians could give them some points. We coaled here, and it was a sight to see the coolies at work. Of course, labour is cheap here, and they had any amount of them at work. The coal, in bags, is brought alongside in barges. A succession of platforms is rigged up from the barge to the deck. Niggers get on each, the bags are handed up from platform to platform, and the coal then tossed into the bunkers. It is a primitive arrangement, and from one end of the ship the na tives look like a lot of ants at work. We were greatly amused at the jabber jabber-the beggars seemed to be yapping the whole time. Coaling was finished on the night and early morning of the 16th and 17th, and we steamed  out at 5 a.m. on the latter date. From here on to the Red Sea there is very little to tell. One evening, a day or two after leaving Colombo, we passed the Laccadive Islands-very small, but interesting to us, looking very pretty and having a lighthouse that stood out white against, the blue sky. The next land we sighted was a great outstanding cape that looked in shape like an immense iceberg. This must have been Socotra Island, for soon af terwards we sighted on our left another great jutting piece of land, which must lave been Cape Guardafui. I hoped we would call in at Aden, but we didn't. Perim Island, at the entrance to the Red Sea, was interesting, and is very picturesque, with its lighthouse and Eastern looking buildings standing out against the barren looking land. the Mocha coffee, I  understand, comes from here. I should have liked to have seen "Hell's Gate"-the "Heads of the Red Sea"--in daylight, but unfor tunately, we passed them at night. I was disappointed with the Red Sea. I can't say exactly what I had expected -perhaps it was land or a great deal of shipping, but we didn't see much of either.

Five of us had a very interesting experience here one night. We decided we'd like to give the old tub a help along, so asked the engineer if we could give a hand with the stoking. We went on with the 8 to 12 p.m. shift. Of course, it's a pretty hot job, so we stripped to the waist. To get into the stokehole you've got to go down into the bowels of the ship, and my word it gave us an idea of the size of these boats, and, of course by comparison, of what the really big ships are like. Stoking has got to be learnt, so all we could hope to do was to lend a hand with what they call the "trimming" bagging the ashes and running the coal up to the fires. We were soon working like slaves and thoroughily enjoying it. You would have laughed had you seen us-as black as niggers. The fires interested me very much--16 of them. Each stoker has charge of so many. When he opens a fire to throw in great shovelsful of coal a tongue of flame leaps out to lick it in. We were entitled to a ration of rum just before going off duty, and it was a surprised engineer when five soldiers - specially Australian - told him they were teetotallers!

A TRIP TO EGYPT. (1916, March 30). The Essendon Gazette and Keilor, Bulla and Broadmeadows Reporter (Moonee Ponds, Vic. : 1914 - 1918), p. 1 Edition: Morning.. Retrieved January 28, 2012, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74592400